Home in Istanbul

Arriving in Istanbul for the third time this trip again I was excited and felt at home. I don’t know what it is that makes me feel that way but I am here to do a recce (and eat) to suss out the feasibility of spending a decent chunk of time here. I love it, I love the insanity, the mix of cultures and religions, the didferences between different parts of the city and of course the food. Oh I already said that didn’t I. I love the call to prayer humming through the early morning. 

Lugging my duffel bag (remember no wheels) I made it to the bus station that goes closest to my hotel which is in an area I havent spent much time in but am keen to explore. In the new city close to the fish market and across the Golden Horn from the old city. The Bosphorous is close. 

The bus takes me to the terminus from where I grabbed a cab. Having asked the price before I got in knew I was getting overcharged but by that stage I just wanted to get to the hotel so didnt care. No sooner we set off and he started to increase the price. I told him to stop and I would get out but the bartering continued until I showed him how much I would have paid for an uber and also showed him that I had taken a screen shot. The outcome Helen 1, taxi driver 0.  We arrived at the hotel, he got what he quoted, I went into the hotel and he left. Perfect. 

I’m on an upper floor of the hotel with a glimpse of the Bosphorous and a very close up view of the turrets of the local mosque that are topped with five loud speakers not 10ft from my window. I should keep my wishes to myself. I wanted the haunting sounds from afar not in my face. Oh well. 

I came out for a walk to find a massive cake shop next door - bad move and even worse a neighbourhood of turkish and western restaurants on my door step. The location could not be better. 

A simple dinner of lachmajun (sort of a turkish pizza) boosted my energy before it was back to the hotel to settle in. I’m here. Tomorrow I explore. I can’t wait. 

I have a few missions while I am here:

*Eat Simit - bread rings with sesame seeds

*Buy the statue I didn’t buy in 2015

*Eat a fish sandwich from the vendor at the end of the Galata Bridge

*Eat kokoretsi - kebab of sheeps entrails

*Explore an area I found last time that was full of bakeries - I would love to live there

*Have a hammam

*Do another Culinary Backstreets food tour. 

The first three should be easy enough as I know exactly where to go and so off I set, buy my public transport card and buy the Simit. I was so disappointed as it tasted as bad as the one I had when I was here in transit. I couldn’t swallow it so that was that and it was disposed of. I may try again another day from another vendor. 

My metro ride takes me over to the old city close to the Grand Bazaar. Last time I came I was unimpressed but thought I would check it out again incase the shop where I originally saw the statue wasn’t there. 

I wasn’t any more impressed but I did find a shop with something similar to what I was looking for. The problem was they had quite a few pieces that I really liked so how does one choose?  I left to go and think and see if I could find exactly what I was after. I’m still thinking.  If I dont find the exact one I am looking for I will have to keep coming back until I do so something similar just wont cut the mustard. 

For old times sake I spent some time wandering the old city, the spires of Agia Sophia poking into the sky like needles and the Blue Mosque glittering next door. The sky line of the old city must be one of the most stunning in the world. 

Time to head to the Egyptian Bazaar to find the shop with the statue.   

Bazaar found easily, where the location of the shop was just as easy but then it was 8 years ago and Covid hit in that time so the shop with the statue was no longer there. I marvelled at all the spice displays, the never ending rows of Turkish Delight shops that give you a taste of their turkish delight then sell you a cheap imitation and of course the pastry shops. I had to resist. 

The Golden Horn separates the Old City from the slightly newer parts of Istanbul and the Galata Bridge makes the transition easy. Under the bridge are dozens of restaurants catering to a tourist audience but I didnt need them as I was going for a fish sandwich from the guy thst stood at the end of the bridge. Well he did in 2015. He did not today. 

None of my first three missions have been successful today but I had to eat and settled on a wee basic restaurant in the fish market area. $10 got me a plate of fried anchovies (not the salted type - ordinary little scrummy fish) and a coke. Perfect and a good substitute for my fish sandwich. 

On the way back to the hotel were a few shops, lots of restaurants and cafes and a department store where I saw this. 

Later in the afternoon I headed off in the opposite direction passing a couple of mosques and a soon to be opened (tonight judging by the preparations that were happening) The Istanbul Modern. All very swish and modern. 

Along side the Istanbul Modern was an area known as Galata Port which ran alongside the Bosphorous where two massive Cruise ships were moored. Landside was a huge area housing designer shops, restaurants, cafes, bars. Absolutely beautiful and everything was full of people ( most carrying numerous shopping bags). Quite a different demographic to what I had seen earlier where the majority of people were in Western dress just like home. Most were probably tourists but they didn’t speak English or have cameras and packs slung over their shoulders so you couldn’t tell.  The people st Galata Port were possibly tourists too but many of the women were either veiled or wearing headscarves. I suspect they were wealthy tourists from Middle Eastern countries. Other women were very well and expensively dressed so it is obviously a haunt for the rich. Nevertheless it was fabulous. 

I saw signs for the Post Office and headed that way believing I would find a Post Office. Dumb thought. I found a building called Post Office filled with more shops and more restaurants. The entire area around my hotel is full of restaurants. Oh dear how sad. 

Feet sore, body overheating, time to go so I headed home and ate greek marshmallows for dinner.