Tesekkur Ederim Istanbul

Today I started off grabbing a cab, (uber which use yellow taxis and super cheap) and going to the Jewish/Greek neighbourhoods of Fener and Balat. They were actually quite close to where I was yesterday I just became impatient a little too early. 

I am not sure what I expected but seeing things typically Jewish/Greek was definitely there on my list. Bus loads and throngs of tourists and souvenir shops was not. 

Consequently my search for Latkes (jewish potato cakes) was fruitless but I did pass a couple of Greek churches and saw a shop named after some Greek dude. 

From afar at the top of a hill I could see the massive Fener Greek Orthodox College, known in Greek as the Great School of the Nation and Patriarchal Academy of Constantinople, is the oldest surviving and most prestigious Greek Orthodox school in Istanbul. The school, like all minority schools in Turkey, is a secular school.  It goes back to the 15th century and from what I could see is quite spectacular. It was too hot to be scaling hills so I marveled from below. 

Tourist cafes selling tourist food seemed the norm so I settled for an ice cream (dondurma) and wandered the streets. It is so picturesque but did not remind me of Israel or Greece and the tourists were like packs of mice swirling under my feet. 

I slowly made my way along the waterfront, back closer to home. 

I went looking for a particular brand of Turkish Delight that I’d heard was the best. Turkish Delight and Pastry shops are everywhere. They vary from rubbish to exceptional, the exceptional being hard to find. Often what they give you to taste bears no resemblance to what is in the boxes so it is a bit hit n miss. 

I didn’t find the shop but found another ‘reputable’ place. Hmm we shall see. 

Back at the hotel I intended having a nap then popping over the Bosphorous to Asia (yes it is that easy) for dinner. On my last visit I spent a lot of time over there far from tourist throngs and surrounded by authentic restaurants with some amazing food. It would have been fitting to spend my last night there. 

But by the time I woke up the wind had gone from my sails and the thought of the trip, although easy it involves changing a few modes of transport, just seemed too hard. 

So here I am, in my hood, waiting for my fish wrap. Not the fish in bread I was hoping for and the mackerell might be imported but hey!  It was on my list. A photo wont do it justice but by goodness it is so good. 

A spiced lavosh bread wrapped around a grilled fish fillet and lashings of salad dressed with lemon juice. It was not as good as expected. It was better. I want another!  

And I’m back for another. I went for a walk to think. As they say all roads lead to….. fish wraps. I laughed at the ever growing queue of people waiting at the well advertised other fish wrap place. I dont see those people putting as much care into theirs as my ‘mates’ at Galata Fish Mekan are. 

There are just two cooks, one cooking the fish and meticulously removing the skin and bones, the other guy puts them together;Oils the lavosh turns it over and picks up the fish with it Seasoning - looks like zatar - add vinegar, a red sauce,seasoning, fried onions, salad, lemon juiceAnd the fish. 

Roll it up and there is lusciousness in a wrap.  As I drooled over my meal I watched the people next to me eating their mydia. Mussels stuffed with in this case herbed rice. Darn I had forgotten about them and they are sooooo good. 

I’ve been here nearly a week and each night have wished there was a nice sweet place to finish my meal. There is a place right next to me but both time I have tried their food I have been disappointed. 

Tonight after my two fish wraps and a full belly, at the other end of my road I stumbled across Beyzade. A sweet shop that is full and does one of my favourite deserts. Nah! I’m full and I kept walking, walking, walking back to the hotel. 

That did not last long. I am now at Beyzade having ordered a kunafé. More on that in a sec. 

While waiting I get this:

Did I mention that I was full?  Doesn’t stop me eating the freshly roasted pistachios or the corn kernels. The other dish contains what look like roasted split peas and possibly juniper berries and did not excite me. But I devoured the banana and apple with glee. My kunafé arrives, I am in raptures. 

You may ask why and even if you don’t ask I will tell you - kunafé is a savoury sweet made from kataifi (think shredded filo) baked till crunchy and filled with mozarella like cheese. In this case there was crushed pistachios in the filling as well. Once it is baked a sugar/honey syrup is poured over the top. 

Today’s was very subtle, not a very strong cheese and not overly sweet, and was just amazing. I can carry that flavour home with me as my last meal in Istanbul. 

This is my last night here. Tomorrow I partially complete my last mission and before I leave will visit a hammam. I’m not having the full steam room hammam experience, just a massage as the idea of hot steam when I am struggling with the heat is just not on. 

Istanbul I have loved every minute of you. There is so much more of you I want to see. Until next time.  Teşekkür ederim or Sao.