Lahij to Sheki

I don’t do breakfast but when I saw the lavish spread that was prepared for us how could I say no; cheeses, tomatoes, cucumber, spoon jam, caramels, honey, jam, blini, bread. I stuffed myself silly before we piled into our car and headed off. 

As we went further north the Lada’s became more and more common until virtually all the vehicles were old Lada’s. We are now close to Russia with pretty much just the Caucus mountains separating us from the Russian border. Our road takes us through some stunning hilly scenery and as the road flattens out we can see the snow on the Caucuses in the background. Its stunning.  

We stop to look inside an Albanian Idi orthodox church and while there we discussed the traditions of the various religions that we were each born into Moslem, Orthodox, Judaism. Its interesting to compare the similarities and the differences of each. 

Back on the road we stop for a roadside treat in the form of a Qutab; a thin crepe filled with either a Spinach mix or cheese. The spinach was a mix of greens with a flavour similar to what you find in greek spanakopita. Both were delicious and at a cost of $1 provided a cheap meal.  

Our wee outdoor table was under a giant walnut tree from which I picked a small fresh walnut. Scratching the surface to release a little of the moisture I rubbed it on my lips. I was told they would change colour. I’m waiting! Waiting!  

It was rather special sitting under the tree having our freshly prepared food and enjoying a few laughs. From where we sat we could see the herd of cows meandering along the road, supposedly without a care in the world. 

After about another hour we arrived in Sheki which according to Mr Wikipedia is a city in northwestern Azerbaijan, surrounded by the district of the same name. It is located on the southern part of the Greater Caucasus mountain range, 240 km from Baku. As of 2020, it has a population of 68,400. The center of the city and the Palace of Shaki Khans were inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2019 because of its unique architecture and its history as an important trading center along the Silk Road.  We will see all that tomorrow. 

It’s hot, damn hot and in the heat of the day the hotel room is the best place to be. Again a very respectable, clean, no frills hotel that’s local, close to the city and for me extra good as they offer massages. I booked one (a chocolate massage no less) before I even saw my room. 

Now, nap over, I am in a coffee shop in the township enjoying their air con and free wifi. The township is a short walk from the hotel and looks so cute. I’m looking forward to exploring tomorrow.   

For dinner we wandered about half an hour skirting the city centre and on the way passing through a large park set up with tables where men were playing backgamon. Further on we encountered another group playing Rummicub and enjoying the audience. 

Eventually we stood in front of a majestic looking building; the home of VIP KARAVAN restaurant.  The interior of the building is castle like but outside are lovely dining spaces where we chose a table, ordered our meals and started off with a craft beer, filtered. A rather nice wee drop. 

Choosing a main was difficult, there were so many choices and so many things I wanted to try but settled on a lamb, chestnut, walnut and pomegranate stewy thing.  Let’s see. 

The starter was a chicken roulade stuffed with dates, apricots and orange. Simply divine.  Once I had finished a couple of pieces I realised it wasn’t our starter but was Ani’s main that I had eaten. Sorry Ani. It was so good though and I was drooling and wondering if I really wanted my main. 

That was until it arrived:

Tender pieces of lamb virtually floating in oil, joined by toasted walnuts, chestnuts and pomegranate pils. Exactly as it said and as good as I expected. Each of the ingredients stood out from the next but combined they created a real flavour burst that was soooo good. The oil was mainly mopped up by Ani’s bread. Thanks again Ani. 

It started to rain so it was a cab back to the hotel just in time for the massage I had booked. They had run out of chocolate so instead was treated to a ‘classic’. And it was oh so good. I love massages in the countries where wokeness has not taken over. None of this hiding under a sheet with the masseuse to scared to move any clothing to get pretty much you whole body. I left there with almost my whole body smothered in oil and as relaxed as I could possibly be. Divine. 

I was given towels as I left. I think I was supposed to shower the oil off but no way. I am keeping every drop overnight in the hope it all soaks in. 

And on that note. Heavenly dreams everyone.