The road to Lahij

This morning at a respectable time we left Baku headed north to the village of Lahij  in the lower aspects of the Caucus Mountains. Going through the outer suburbs the motorway took us past neighbourhoods that didn’t look to different from what ours did a few years back. Single level homes, slate roofs and large yards. Most people here in Azerbaijan own their own homes, few rent and even poor people have a roof over their heads, can eat comfortably and live a basic but ok lives. 

We had some great discussions about the political structure where the current President inherited the role from his father and has virtually a guaranteed position for life. His wife is the Vice-President!  Their son will probably be the next President. The Aliyev family have provided the country with stability, genuine regard for the people and the prosperity of the country and although their tenure is guaranteed it is still considered a democracy. 

Although a predominantly Muslim country their traditions are far more relaxed than other Muslim countries where religion and politics go hand in hand and the state has a role in enforcing what they believe to be the words of their holy book. 

Arranged marriages are the exception rather than the rule and even then it is more an arranged introduction where the final choice sits in the hands of the participants. 

Seldom do homes house multiple generations of a family or married siblings. 

Medical services are virtually free and prescriptions attract a small costs but private healthcare is common. 

Social security systems exist but payments are minimal. 

Our discussions are cut short when we arrive at the Juma Mosque. A very beautiful but simple structure if compared with Mosques  in the middle east. This one is a replica/restored version of the first mosque in Azerbaijan. 

The journey continues and winds up away from the parched ground into greener hilly pastures where the Caucuses can be seen majestically towering in the background. It’s rather beautiful. 

Eventually we arrive in the village of Lahij where we continue on old paved and rickety roads until we arrive at our destination. 

Lahij is a village of the Tats people. Its very picturesque with a sprinkling of souvenir shops and a couple of cafes. 

We arrive at our destination The Rastam Guesthouse, a gorgeous old building with lovely rooms and a terrace looking out over the fruit trees. It’s beautiful.  The owner is a lovely elderly gentleman named Rastam and has a helper named Islam. They are both lovely and made us feel very much at home. 

We wandered through the town and took the opportunity to go see some metal workers making their ware, mainly gorgeous brass samovars. My travel colleague Bob was invited to use the pump, to work the bellows, to ignite the flame which would soften the sheet of brass. He then got to beat the sheet flat. The craftsman then took a small piece of copper and etched it as a souvenir for Bob who was chuffed. Amazing work done with such precision and just a small tool and a hammer. Really cool stuff. 

We slowly wandered up the hill back to the guest house. It was quite a trek in the hot sun and I was so happy that I had stashed a few cold juices in my bag. They were skulled in two secs. 

Time for a quick nap and then Mr Rastam showed Bob the start of the process making Suzma (tzatziki). I kept my distance because the smell of yoghurt is sickening to me. 

Rastam cooked us a delicious meal, a lentil soup followed by mince stuffed vegetables and was so nice to feel at home. A tomato and cucumber salad sat along side together with an amazing cheese called sulguni, a bit like feta. We also had a bottle of water which was flavoured with a bit of rose syrup, baby feijoas and a slice of quince. Divine. 

Our dinner was followed by sage tea, caramel sweets and a spoon sweet made with an oval form of cherry. Oh my god!  I am going to explode but it feels so good. 

We sat around around the table chatting for a while and it was great sharing stories and learning of one another’s culture. 

Another great day. Thanks Ani.