A glimpse of Baku at night.

7:30pm and again I’m out and about. My stomach told me it was time to be refilled so here I am. 

From this morning I remembered a restaurant I had seen that looked stunning and advertised local food. I’m sitting there as I write. 

But before arriving here I did a bit of a wander and found the top entrance to the old city. This was far more appealing than the part I saw this morning but still didn’t have the allure of other old cities I have been before. Our tour does a stint in the old city so I didn’t stay long but did check out a nice looking hammam. Sadly it’s only open for Women on Monday and Friday. Neither work for me but I think I will run out of time anyway. I have plans for tomorrow my last day on my own. 

For Chris C, as you walk down from the hotel go past the Entree coffee shop and looking left on the intersections (think its one past the coffee shop) you will see a shiny glass structure. Walk down that street, use the underpass and you will end up in front of the glass structure (which is actually a metro station). Behind there is the gate to the old city. The Hammam is down the street to your right. 

To the right of the metro is the restaurant I am in, sitting in the garden listening to live music. Magical. 

The menu does have an English version and they do have the token English speaking waiter (well speaking is probably not the right word - he understands what you point to on the menu and smiles and nods his head - a bit like me when I can’t hear. )

I suppose some of the patrons must be tourists but its hard to tell. They all blend in and speak languages I don’t understand.  I think of a tourist as someone like me - speak English and stick out like a sore thumb. I have not seen another grey haired woman yet. Come to think of it I haven’t seen a lot of older women. 

Lots of youngsters and also old men just hanging round but no women. 
There are no scruffs. There are no beggars. There are no people sprawled across the pavement. There are few animals around; the odd cat and so far I havent seen any dogs.  

Most everyone is dressed in trousers/jeans with a T-shirt but they are far neater than our lot. Men and women alike walk with an attitude and seldom do you see anyone walking the street gawking at their phone. Young men are mainly bearded and tattoos are either hidden or non existent. Mine have attracted more than a few glances. 

Although this is a predominantly Muslim country Burquas, Abeyas and head scarves are the exception and possibly belong to visitors from the more conservative Muslim countries.  I haven’t seen anyone with a prayer mat nor have I seen anyone praying on the street. It is quite different to other predominantly Muslim countries I have been. I have yet to hear a call to prayer or see a mosque but it is early days yet.  That haunting early morning call to prayer is something I love about being in a Muslim country.  Alcohol is readily available and partaken by many. Smoking does not seem too prevalent and I’ve hardly seen any vapers ( is that what they are called?). 

Azerbaijan is considered a secular country where the various religions have equal say and don’t influence the running of the country. Much like Turkey but there the Muslim influence is very obvious. 

I look forward to learning more about this fascinating place on the tour. 

My ordered meal arrived. He did understand. A ‘meat’ kebab with country fried potatoes, a nice warm bread roll and a coke. Anne T I have $100 at the ready. Coke (full fat) has been present at every single refreshment stop and I’m feeling it already. 

My meal tonight is nothing startling. The meat is of indiscernible flavour and not the moist ‘meat’ I’ve ever had. BUT, and there is always one, the fries and the gently spiced tomato based sauce on the side are delicious. The setting makes up for everything. 

As night falls the temperature subsides and the lights start to fill the voids. Its quite surreal sitting in this garden just meters from a main road but without traffic noise. 

Slowly I wander home taking in the lights as I go. I look left before crossing the road and am mesmerised by the lights of the ‘Flame Towers’ in the distance. Oh so special. 

I pass a funny looking place with lots of gold glitz outside and peep in the door. Its like crazy land and I find it is a hammam. Men only. Grrrr. Until tomorrow.